Sidmouth: wild gardens, quaint hotels, drunken yobs, crumbling cliffs, festive folkies and Britain in Bloom - we have them all! As of January 2007, the wreck of the Napoli became an added attraction. The last section was removed in July 2009.

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Sidmouth is located within the newly designated World Heritage Site of the so-called "Jurassic coast". This has led a few councillors to claim that East Devon is therefore now on a par with such tourist attractions as the Grand Canyon and the Great Barrier Reef. It is not. We have some pleasant countryside, far too much tourist traffic and some old fossils. The old exposed rocks further along the coast have been attracting visitors for decades. One of the town's principal attractions is 'Folk Week' in August - some photos follow. The future of Folk Week is still in doubt in the longer term but 2005/6/7/8/9 were successes - so they must be getting something right!.

Driving a car into Sidmouth - let alone parking it - can be a nightmare. Advice on parking is available - together with details of the shuttle bus service and comments about some of our less able councillors.

This webpage is one of the most popular on SeeRed during the summer months - as is the hotels page - and thank you to the people who email their appreciation.

By good fortune, the wreck of the Napoli has caused fewer long term environmental problems than might have been the case. Needless to say, local government leaders were quick to bestow praise on their 'disaster management strategies'. In reality, the unfolding of events owed everything to good luck, competent salvage crews and good weather and little to local bureaucracy. However, residual problems on local beaches especially to the east of Sidmouth may be expected for years. Assorted debris including hyperdermic needles may still be washed up from time to time but local people continue to undertake 'voluntary' beach cleaning. 

The majestic red cliffs of Sidmouth, a quintessentially 'English' resort town.

An important study of the town has been published by the 'Vision for Sidmouth' group - a copy of their 2006 report is here (pdf 2.6 MB, a few minutes download at 56k but worth the wait!)

We have a packhorse bridge dating from Norman times and from which you can admire the view down the river. This might be much the same today as it was then, almost 1000 years ago. We also have some quaint seventeenth century cottages but they are ruined by speeding vehicles, traffic fumes and overhead wires. The bridge is reputed to be the site of a skirmish in 1644 during the English Civil War.

The view down the river Sid and St Peter's Church, both in Sidford.

Most recently, Sidford became famous for having not only probably the worst designed set of traffic signals in the country but also the Sidford Wild Garden. This was featured widely on BBC radio and television between 2000 and 2002 as a part of long running dispute with Britain in Bloom and a few wilting town and district councillors. Sidford is also home to a two roomed brick and wooden 'shack' that was featured in the national and international press (and on CNN) as an example of property prices gone mad. £60,000 (about $100,000) for a shack measuring just 15 by 10 feet and next to a noisy road junction! In mid 2003 it was featured again in the national UK press.

Sidford is also home to one of the first 20 mph zones that includes a busy main A road. Overall it has been a spectacular failure with vehicle speeds hardly influenced at all. Probably over a million drivers have passed the Speed Visor sign at an excessive speed since it was installed in April 2004, yet there has not been a single prosecution. Compare that with the impact of speed regulating traffic signals that are used so successfully in Spain and Portugal!

The packhorse bridge and the famous wooden shack at Sidford Cross.

The river Sid was here long before the Romans came. If it lasts for another 10,000 years, it might even witness the advent of open government in Devon. In the meantime, it supports rainbow trout, herons, dippers, kingfishers and several types of wagtails and dragonflies, all of which I can see from time to time from my lounge window - which is why I came to live here! The kingfishers especially are mostly frightened away during the summer by rampaging tourists. So if you visit the Sid valley, please treat our wildlife habitats and especially the river with respect. The wildlife lives here, you don't.

The kingfisher is an occasional visitor to the Sidford Wild Garden, perching on a branch and watching the river for a meal. These rare birds nest in at least two places along the river Sid (but we don't tell people where). One of the more stupid proposals from our councillors (and from the Vision for Sidmouth group in their 2006 report) is to locate a cycle path close to the river - ensuring the birds and other sensitive wildlife such as otters will probably be frightened away. I have only twice seen a pair flying down the river together. Wandering juveniles are a more common sight - a few times a year if I am lucky!

One of the main attractions of Sidmouth is the Byes - and area of level parkland ideal for the elderly visitors that the town attracts. The waterfall on the river Sid is worth seeing on a bright sunny day (we do have them sometimes!)

Have you discovered the famous Sidmouth folk festival yet? If not, do so soon! Ideal for families, the friendly and well behaved atmosphere on the campsite and in the town has to be experienced to be believed, and all amidst Regency surroundings. There are no noisy 'amusement arcades' but we do still have lots of traffic fumes and speeding vehicles along the Esplanade to spoil what could otherwise be a wholly delightful resort town. One day, if sensible local and district councillors are ever elected, we might have the seafront area largely pedestrianised!

There is already an alcohol ban, but it is little enforced and what could be the quiet ambience of the Esplanade is often further ruined by older youngsters 'cruising around' in high powered cars with their stereo systems blaring. The neighbouring larger resort town of Exmouth (west of Sidmouth) has suffered from a substantial problem for years. Despite adequate legislation being in force, the police and local councils do little or nothing to stem what is a continuing and dangerous nuisance. Strangely the 'downmarket' town of Seaton to the east seems to have fewer problems - a police officer in Sidmouth once told me the perpetrators were "just the lads from St John's school" - as if a privileged private education in Sidmouth properly conferred some immunity from prosecution! In any case, St John's only takes pupils to age 13 - old enough to be amongst the drunken tearaways but hardly old enough to drive.

           

Sidmouth's 'Folk Festival' attracts performers and visitors from around the world. Some return every year for decades. 'Folk week' is disliked by a minority of residents - some even leave town. Young musicians (and some not so young) perform for the crowds. Some collect money for 'good causes'. Click here to view more photographs from the 2003 festival.

Come and enjoy a fantastic week of music and dance. It used to be a world famous international festival but because of many problems it is now a much smaller affair. You will also be able to admire the dotty floral displays of Britain in Bloom. In 2005, Sidmouth suffered several months of a mini-crime wave. The vandalism even extended to burning boats on the beach. Things are quieter now (in 2009 only a few deckchairs were burnt!) but alcohol abuse continues to be a major issue and a detracting factor for Sidmouth's traditionally staid summer visitors.

Sidmouth is also the home of the Sid Vale Association, which was the first Civic Society in Britain - founded in 1846. The SVA gave their own verdict on town planning in Sidmouth recently. See townplanning.htm for a few choice words about bureaucrats. Further details about Sidmouth generally are on the official website. The new-look folk festival also has its own website - and long may it continue.

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